keskiviikko 13. huhtikuuta 2016

Making of: Reversible Corset Pattern, pt. 3

Once upon a time last week, I shared pt. 2 on the How I Make My patterns -extravaganza. Today, it is time for the last part. 

As mentioned in pt. 1, most designers these days draft their patterns by hand, test them, and then re-draw them with the help of Illustrator. 
I do things a little bit differently, mainly because this is the way I've always done my patterns. It's the natural way for me to do this. 
So. The design started out as pieces cut from a newspaper. I traced them onto sheets of white paper, naturally with the help of rules and curves. 

I added sizes, creating options through 32 to 42. Usually, I offer petite sizes only, but with this corset, I wanted a little bit more variety. As the pattern is directed toward a darker audience, I didn't feel like constricting my imagination when it came to drawing alignment marks... 

All of my patterns come signed. My favourite moment in pattern drafting is when I get to dot the last eye and look at the finished pattern sheet, knowing it can soon be released into the wide world. 

Next, I scan each page, making certain they print out in the exact same size as they went in. I edit the scanned pages lightly, mainly to enhance lines. 

Next, the pages are imported into Illustrator. 
Finally, say all the other pattern designers. I mainly use Illustrator to enhance images and to smooth out irregular lines. Most of my patterning related work is done in the old-fashioned way, with pen and paper. 
By hand. 

Last stop is to write a detailed tutorial on how to construct a garment. I try to do this using language as plain as possible so that even beginners can easily understand what exactly happens with each seam. 

And that's pretty much that. The way patterns are created at Heather Wielding Designs. 
Speaking of which, the Reversible Corset Pattern is now available on Craftsy. I really hope you'll like it! 

Until next time. 

keskiviikko 6. huhtikuuta 2016

Making of: Reversible Corset Pattern, pt. 2

Last week, I started a three-part post on how I create my patterns. In the first part, we took a look at coming up with an idea, and designing it to become a reality. I started drafting a reversible corset a while back, and today, I get to show you the finished garment. 
Well, one of them. I've decided to separate the two corsets I'm working on into two patterns: a reversible waist corset, and a half-bust with an option to make it reversible. Both these garments are for decorational purposes only. 

The reversible waist corset is done, part from anchoring the boning to place. This can only be done by hand, and I have postponed it to a later time. 
I used a satin finished cotton-blend for one side of the corset. One this side, the bone channels can only be seen as lines of stitching. 

This style doesn't come with a modesty panel. Making one into a reversible style is literally impossible. 

I chose to use a zipper to close the corset at the front. This makes it easy to wear. I do recommend choosing a reversible zip, though! I didn't have one handy, so I used an ordinary one. It works without a hitch, only closing the black side takes a little longer. 

The other side of the corset is made with skull-printed cotton. On this side, I sewed black bone channels. 

Now the pattern is waiting to be finished. I found only minor offsets in pattern piece lengths, but nothing major. So next week, I get to show you how I turn pieces cut out of an old newspaper into a digital sewing pattern. 
Until next Wednesday!