keskiviikko 30. syyskuuta 2015

Let's Make... Collar to Sleeve

Once upon a time, I found a top at the flea market. I liked the print, but it had a high turtleneck collar. Being known to be crafty at times, I figured I might do something about it. 


At home, I cut the collar off. It was high and did very little to flatter my not-so-long neck. I cut the neckline to a more revealing shape, and opened the seam on the collar. 
The piece gained was quite long and quite wide. 


I used some of it for binding. 


In my opinion, a garment can work with contrast coloured binding. Unless it's loud to begin with. 


The rest of the collar wanted to be a sleeve. I asked it if it might get lonely all on its own, but it said no, I will be a sleeve when I grow up! 
Fine, I said, at least take this bit of lace to keep you company. 


The elastic lace gives the sleeve a bit of support, and acts as a pretty detail. 


The cuff got a simple rolled hem. Anything more would have been too much. 


On photoshoot-day, I figured too much would be a good thing for a change. 
I paired the top with my tulle skirt with red shorts under it. The outfit felt comfortable and awkward at the same time: I love the look, but... it is a bit much. 
What do you say? Yay or go home and change? 

Until next Wednesday! 
Love,
Heather

keskiviikko 23. syyskuuta 2015

Let's Make... Add a Layer to a Skirt

Once upon a time, not so long ago nor very far away, I moved to Muurasjärvi. On that very day, my hosting service encountered severe problems. 
Two weeks later I moved again. To Tampere, this time. And two days later, my hosting service fixed problems on their end. 
I hope that explains why I have been absent and why our website has been out of order. 

Now, as things are settling here in the big city (with yours truly staring out the window, shrieking of happiness since there are no cows in sight) we shall return to our regular schedule. 
With a small change. 
Our official blog (heatherwielding.com/blog) will from now on concentrate on presenting more detailed information of our products. Here, I will show you things I've made for Me and sometimes for clients. 
Let's begin. 

Once upon a time, I had a pleated tartan skirt. It was a bit loose around the waist, and a bit too light to be worn on its own during the fall. Of course I could have just popped a petticoat beneath it, but since I wanted it to sit a little higher, I decided to add another layer to it. 
Sorry about the lousy photo, my muse was very persistent that day and left me no time to set up a camera stand. Thing. What-chuma-callit. Anyway, the garment was a basic knee-length box pleated skirt with a straight hem and a too loose waist. 


First, I took off the waistband. The waist of the skirt needed to be an inch smaller, so I took the easy way out, and made the waistband an inch shorter. Later, I would just force the material of the skirt to fit in a narrower space. Going over every sewn pleat would have been the tidiest solution, but the amount of work made me go Meh. 


Next, I took my scissors. I liked the length of the skirt, but a straight waist line made the hem look uneven, and shorter around the back. This is due to the fact that most women have what we in the sewing industry like to call a Derriere. With a straight, loose skirt, your backside will raise the back hem of the skirt, making it look uneven. This makes the skirt look and feel awkward. 
To fix the issue, I shaped the front of the waist, making it curve down a little. This will shorten the front hem, and make it match with the back hem. 


After rummaging through my stash, I found a bit of very light cotton, and a bit of pleated fabric. 


I joined the two, and gained a light underskirt to hide under the tartan. 


With the pleated fabric peaking out from under the tartan, it looks like I'm wearing two pleated skirts. The cotton being narrow, I no longer have to worry so much about wayward gusts of wind. Yay!


After the layers of the skirt were sewn together at the waist, I attached the now shorter waistband. To force the material meet the length, I ruched it just a little bit. Tiny tucks of fabric are nearly invisible, and saved me from a lot of work. 
To attach a waistband, first slap it onto the inside of the skirt with the right side facing the wrong side of the skirt's waist. Sew, turn the waistband over itself, and tuck in the raw edge. Top stitch, and you're all done. 


To achieve a tidy end, I tucked in the raw edge first... 


... and then turned the waistband over itself, and tucked the raw edges in. 


After sewing the button on, the skirt was ready to be worn. Again. 


The change was far from drastic, but it made my tartan skirt fuller, more comfortable, and a bit different. By adding another layer, almost any skirt can gain both warmth and volume. 


Until next Wednesday. 
Love, 
Heather