tiistai 19. elokuuta 2014

Let's Make... Ruffle Shrug

What is a Gothic wardrobe without a ruffle shrug? 
Well, lacking a ruffle shrug, obviously. 
Let's make one. 

I had a piece of left over satin in electric blue. I wanted to use all of it for something beautiful. 
It took a long time for the satin to gather up enough courage to talk to me, and as it did, I made its wish come true straight away. 

I started by cutting the piece into two strips. The satin was 120 cm wide (47"), and I got two 27 cm (10.6") high pieces from it. An accessory like this can take a lot of fabric, so if your material is 150 cm (59") wide, don't hesitate using the entire width. 
When choosing fabric, make sure it's a bit stiffer. We'll want the ruffles to be rigid in order to create a dramatic silhouette. 

Olipa kerran palanen sinistä satiinia. Mokoma jäi ylitse, ja otti aikansa ennenkuin se uskalsi kertoa tahtovansa olla isona röyhelöbolero. Leikkasin siis kappaleen kahdeksi 27 cm korkeaksi kaitaleeksi. Satiini oli 120 cm leveää, mutta 150 senttinenkin kangas sopii asusteeseen mainiosti. Mitä enemmän, sen parempi. Muista vain varmistaa, että kangas on vähän tukevampaa. Dramaattinen siluetti vaatii röyhelöiden muodossapysymistä. 

Sew the short ends of fabric together with right sides facing so that you'll end up with a really wide tube. Using a serger will give you tidy seams, but if you only have a sewing machine to work with, I recommend making French seams. The wrong side of the shrug will remain partly visible, so we'll want it as tidy as possible. 

Ompele lyhyet päät yhteen. Sauma jää pilkottamaan nurjalta, joten varmista, että se jää mahdollisimman siistiksi. 

Finish both long edges of the tube. You can use lace to trim the shrug, or just do a rolled hem like I did. 
At this point, an abandoned piece of tulle raised its hesitant little voice, asking to join the party. 

Huolittele molemmat pitkät reunat. Itse käytin kiertopäärmettä, mutta voit viimeistellä reunat vaikkapa pitsillä.
Tässä kohtaahan yksinäinen tyllinpätkä tahtoi tulla mukaan leikkimään. 

Fold your fabric so that you have wrong sides facing. Pin the fold, making sure you get both layers (if you have two, you can also do this with just one layer, or add another one, like lace to create an even rufflier accessory) into it. 

Taita kangas (tai kankaat, kerroksiahan voi olla useampikin) niin, että nurjat puolet jäävät vastakkain, ja neulaa taite. 

Straight stitch through all layers of fabric, leaving 2½ cm (1") to be worked with. Also, remember to leave a gap somewhere. We'll use the channel to insert elastic. 

Ompele kuja parin sentin päähän reunasta. Jätä kuminauhaa varten aukko. 

Open the fabric, and press the channel down. Pin it, and sew through both sides of it to secure it to the fabrics. 

Avaa taitos, ja paina kuja kangasta vasten. Neulaa, ja ompele molemmista reunoista kiinni. Tässä vaiheessa ei enää tarvitse murehtia kuminauha-aukosta: se jäi yhteistyökykyisesti avoimeksi nurjalle. 

At this point, you don't have to worry about the gap any more. 
When you're done, insert an elastic band inside the channel, measure it to comfortable length, secure ends, and enjoy your wicked ruffles. 

Pujota kujaan kuminauha, mittaa mukavan tuntuiseksi, ompele päät yhteen, ja tadaa! ihania röyhelöitä. 

The finished garment will sit around your shoulders, and against the back of your head. 

Bolero asettuu olkapäiden ympärille ja takaraivoa vasten. 

Unlike most ruffle shrugs, this one has a ruffle also across the back. 

Useimmissa tämän mallisissa asusteissa on selässä nauhat tai pelkkä kuminauha. Tässä on röyhelöä selässäkin.
Boleron valmistuttua muistin etten tykkää sinisestä. Tämä jäi etsimään uutta kotia hintaan 30€ postareineen. 

After finishing my shrug, I remembered I have issues with blue. This one is for sale (30€, postage to Finland included), so if you want it, give me a holler! 

Until next time. 

maanantai 4. elokuuta 2014

Let's Make... Tuning up Turtlenecks

The basic turtleneck. 
Suffocating, constricting, impractical. 
But should you toss it just because the collar may be a bit off? 

I had two ordinary turtlenecks. Both were a perfect fit save for the itchy collar. So I decided to give them a makeover. I'll guide you through the process of modding two tops in two different ways, so prepare for a humongous post with loads of pics! 

I started from this. Two turtlenecks, both black, both from the flea market at the total cost of 3€. 

I started by removing the collars. The first one I cut off, shaping the neckline rounder. I opened the seam of the collar piece, and cut two inch wide strips from it. 

When modding collars on tops, I like to use the excess material for binding necklines. That way, the binding matches, and you don't have to throw so much out. 
Binding a basic O-neck is relatively easy: you take a long strip of fabric, fold it so that you have wrong sides facing, slap it on the right side of the neckline, and sew. 

If your neckline is wider than the original collar, you'll need to make seams on your strip. Align them with shoulder seams for a finished look. 

Fold the strip with wrong sides facing, and pin it on the right side of your neckline.

When working with elastic fabrics such as T-shirt jersey, always use your serger. That way, the elasticity of the fabric will remain in the seams. 

Turn the seam to the wrong side, and top stitch. 
All done. This is one easy way of getting rid of the irritating turtleneck, and salvaging a top for further wear.

I wanted the other top to be a bit different. I started by picking out the seam on the collar. Then, I again opened the collar to gain binding material. Only this time, I saved half of the collar to be re-attached. 
After all, turtlenecks can be fun, too. 

I shaped the neckline differently this time. In order to gain a keyhole neck, I cut out a teardrop-shaped piece, making sure I kept the original size of the neckline.

While I was at it, I cut thumbholes into the sleeves. To do this, put the top on, mark the place where your thumb joins to your hand, and cut a small hole below that mark into the sleeve.

I continued by binding the keyhole using the same method as before. 
After that, I made two button-loops. I measured a tight length to my new collar, and attached the loops. 

The collar is just a wide, folded strip of fabric. Attaching it was just like binding a neckline, only I had to be careful to get the ends tidy. 
After serging, I secured the ends of threads into the seams by hand. 

After adding buttons, the collar was done.

I wanted to bind the thumbholes, too, but it turned out a lot trickier than expected. The hole was rather small and the foot on my serger rather large. After a few pin-related injuries and many curses, I did it. 
It's difficult, but doable. I recommend using bias tape and a sewing machine for this. 

The entire process of modding two turtlenecks took me about three hours (photo-snapping and all), cost me about three euros, and resulted in two cool "new" tops to wear. 
Buying new isn't always the only way to go. Sometimes modding what you have can be more fun. 

Until next time.