torstai 18. elokuuta 2016

Mermaid Skirt Mod, pt. 2

Once upon a time last Thursday, I showed you the beginning of my Mermaid Skirt Mod. You can view it here
As mentioned, the skirt was a little bit too short to be long, so I shortened it even more. I also ripped out the front zipper because I have Issues with such. 

Naturally, the skirt needed some sort of closure. No zippers, definitely no velcro, and most certainly not lacing. 
Buttons were actually both my only and favorite solution. 
I dug deep into my stash, dug around for a very long time, and finally found the buttons I was looking for safely stored in a box labeled "knitting notions". Why, I do not know. 


I sewed buttonholes directly into the skirt. I wanted the buttons to show instead of hiding them. For this reason I chose the flashy, silvery ones. 
I sewed the buttons on, and felt very pleased with myself. Buttons, in my opinion, are more reliable than a zipper, and they look nicer when I'm sitting. 


I wanted another little detail to the skirt. 
Most of my clothes don't have pockets. I've never seen an actual point to them, since I always carry a purse around. This skirt, however, desperately wanted patch pockets. 
I cut out two rectangular pieces, finished the upper edge by simply sewing it to the wrong side, and top stitched the pockets on. 
Again, I felt very pleased with myself. 
These kinds of pockets can be decorated with lacing or sewn-on details, but I left these ones plain. This particular skirt has a lot going on, and an extra detail might have made it too busy. 


As a final touch, I did a rolled hem. I chose the simplest finishing technique since the shape of the hem is very far from straight. Sewing it to the wrong side like I usually do with skirts made with twill would not have looked good. The turn would have made the fabric bulge at the back. By doing a rolled hem, I gained a tidier finish. 



The skirt is now knee-length, and has a bit more details. It's far more comfortable to wear since I don't have to worry about it showing my shoes or rising up a little when I walk. 
The buckle settles nicely into place with the hem cut into a hi-lo -shape, so I'm quite happy I hesitated before cutting it. 

I hope you like my Mermaid Skirt Mod! 

Until next time. 
Love, 
Heather

torstai 11. elokuuta 2016

Mermaid Skirt Mod

Once upon a time, many years ago (judging by the length and colour of my hair), I made a bondage-inspired mermaid skirt. It was very tight, and just a little bit too short. I really like the skirt, but since it has a tendency of climbing a bit as I walk, it shows my ankles. 
I don't like that. A long skirt is to cover my shoes, not flaunt them. 

The fabric and details of the skirt please me quite well. It's made with thick, elastic twill, and features a couple of D-rings in the front... 


... and a lacing across the back. It also has a buckle at the knees to help keep the hem in check. 

Two days ago, I found the skirt again, tried it on, and got very upset about the hem. 
Yesterday at around 9PM, I came up with the simplest solution: chop it. 

I can't make it longer, but shortening it will eliminate the problem. In knee-length, the skirt will show a decent amount of leg instead of an uncomfortable peek at footwear. 



I marked the desired length, took my scissors, and hesitated. 
Hesitation when vamping up something is very uncommon for me, so I took the time to think. 
After an entire minute, I cut the hem to a hi-lo -shape so that the buckle wouldn't appear entirely meaningless. 


Another thing that bothered me about the skirt was the closure. It had a zipper sewn into the center front seam, and those things have an annoying tendency to bulge when sitting down. 
Also, zippers can slide. 


I took my seam ripper, and... 

I'll tell you what happened in a couple of days. 
Until then! 
Love, 
Heather

keskiviikko 4. toukokuuta 2016

Suicide Bunny

Once upon a time on a Sunday two weeks or so ago, I decided to make something. 
I've been toying around with the idea of crocheting an EmoBunny for a long time, and the particular Sunday felt like the right time. 
I dug into my stash, and found white cotton yarn purchased many moons ago. As I have very little use for white anything, it was nice to find use for the yarn. 

I haven't got that much experience with crocheting amigurumis, so I needed a pattern for the actual bunny. I used a free pattern (this one) that comes with permission to sell finished items created with the help of the instructions. 
The pattern was a delight to work with, very clear and easy to follow. And the bunny turned out really cute. 
But I wasn't looking for cute. 

Well, maybe one thing. Big, fluffy bunny tails are always cute no matter what they're attached to.
 I gave the bunny a rope with a real hangman's noose, so it can find a suitable spot to, well, hang itself.
 The bunny wanted earrings, so naturally it got some. They're sewn on, just like the nose and the mouth. 
The eyes are basic buttons. One is sewn on with crossed stitches...
 ... and one has accidentally fallen off a bit. 
Naturally, the bunny has been feeling a little down lately, so it's slashed its wrists on numerous spots.
 I posted a picture of this little guy on my personal facebook-page, and it was practically snatched off my hands. I was thinking I might make these on order, so if you'd like to have a suicidal rabbit hanging around your place, message me. 
Making this was super-fun, and I hope I'll get to make more!

Until next time!
Love,
Heather

keskiviikko 13. huhtikuuta 2016

Making of: Reversible Corset Pattern, pt. 3

Once upon a time last week, I shared pt. 2 on the How I Make My patterns -extravaganza. Today, it is time for the last part. 

As mentioned in pt. 1, most designers these days draft their patterns by hand, test them, and then re-draw them with the help of Illustrator. 
I do things a little bit differently, mainly because this is the way I've always done my patterns. It's the natural way for me to do this. 
So. The design started out as pieces cut from a newspaper. I traced them onto sheets of white paper, naturally with the help of rules and curves. 


I added sizes, creating options through 32 to 42. Usually, I offer petite sizes only, but with this corset, I wanted a little bit more variety. As the pattern is directed toward a darker audience, I didn't feel like constricting my imagination when it came to drawing alignment marks... 


All of my patterns come signed. My favourite moment in pattern drafting is when I get to dot the last eye and look at the finished pattern sheet, knowing it can soon be released into the wide world. 


Next, I scan each page, making certain they print out in the exact same size as they went in. I edit the scanned pages lightly, mainly to enhance lines. 


Next, the pages are imported into Illustrator. 
Finally, say all the other pattern designers. I mainly use Illustrator to enhance images and to smooth out irregular lines. Most of my patterning related work is done in the old-fashioned way, with pen and paper. 
By hand. 


Last stop is to write a detailed tutorial on how to construct a garment. I try to do this using language as plain as possible so that even beginners can easily understand what exactly happens with each seam. 

And that's pretty much that. The way patterns are created at Heather Wielding Designs. 
Speaking of which, the Reversible Corset Pattern is now available on Craftsy. I really hope you'll like it! 

Until next time. 
Love, 
Heather

keskiviikko 6. huhtikuuta 2016

Making of: Reversible Corset Pattern, pt. 2

Last week, I started a three-part post on how I create my patterns. In the first part, we took a look at coming up with an idea, and designing it to become a reality. I started drafting a reversible corset a while back, and today, I get to show you the finished garment. 
Well, one of them. I've decided to separate the two corsets I'm working on into two patterns: a reversible waist corset, and a half-bust with an option to make it reversible. Both these garments are for decorational purposes only. 

The reversible waist corset is done, part from anchoring the boning to place. This can only be done by hand, and I have postponed it to a later time. 
I used a satin finished cotton-blend for one side of the corset. One this side, the bone channels can only be seen as lines of stitching. 

This style doesn't come with a modesty panel. Making one into a reversible style is literally impossible. 


I chose to use a zipper to close the corset at the front. This makes it easy to wear. I do recommend choosing a reversible zip, though! I didn't have one handy, so I used an ordinary one. It works without a hitch, only closing the black side takes a little longer. 


The other side of the corset is made with skull-printed cotton. On this side, I sewed black bone channels. 

Now the pattern is waiting to be finished. I found only minor offsets in pattern piece lengths, but nothing major. So next week, I get to show you how I turn pieces cut out of an old newspaper into a digital sewing pattern. 
So. 
Until next Wednesday! 
Love,
Heather



keskiviikko 30. maaliskuuta 2016

Making of: Reversible Corset Pattern, pt 1

This week, I wanted to start a little journey with my loyal readers. I started working on a new reversible corset pattern today, and thought I'd show you what the process is like. All designers create their patterns a little differently. Most use Illustrator to trace their drafted patterns and to add sizes. I learned to draw patterns by hand, and like to take advantage of my skill. 
Creating a pattern starts with an idea. A while back, I got an idea to create a half-bust corset with reductions on the sides only, a flat front, and a curved back. I drafted a pattern for it, and got distracted with an urgent order. 
Today, after returning to my ordinary schedule, I stumbled across a little bit of skull-print cotton, and a little bit of satin finished cotton-blend. Together, these two wanted to be a waist corset. I also dug up spiral steel boning, and a plastic zipper. 
I've been in dear need of a skull-patterned anything for a long time now, and couldn't bear to hide the print inside a corset.

The only problem was that I couldn't decide which fabric I liked better. To save myself from choosing, I decided to create a reversible corset. I took the earlier drafted over-bust pattern, modified it a bit, and gained a waist corset pattern with a flat front, and curved sides. 
The next step in the process is to test the pattern out. When testing, I polish out minor mistakes which often occur in pattern drafting. It may be that the length of a certain pattern piece is a bit off, or that a straight seam needs a little bit of curve. Usually, these mistakes are rare. I've been patterning garments of all sorts for nearly twenty-five years, and pretty much know my way around measurements and curves. 
I use newspapers to draft the first version of pattern pieces. Paper is paper is paper.

So, tomorrow I get to start sewing two super-cool corsets of which one is reversible. I hope I'll get to show you the results next Wednesday! 

Love, 
Heather

torstai 18. helmikuuta 2016

Garter Petticoat

Once upon a time, winter came. It was cold and snowy, and I had to go outside for groceries. And parties. And things. Life, you know. I like to wear light layers when temperatures drop to freezing. Three skirts keep you warm far better than one. 
But I had an issue with socks and legwarmers. When walking, they tend to slide. And you have to stop to pull them up and your knees get cold and, well, all in all long socks and legwarmers are a pain to wear. 

So I came up with something. 

I dug out a jersey top I no longer like. And four garters. 
I cut the top to length, and shaped the sides just a little bit. 
 I sewed an elastic ribbon to the waist... 
 ... and attached garters to the hem. 
No longer will my socks run down to my ankles, thank you very much. 
 My Grand Invention will soon come out as a sewing pattern. I hope you'll like it as much as I do! 

Until next time. 
Love, 
Heather

perjantai 12. helmikuuta 2016

Corset ReVamp, pt. 3

Once upon a time, I had a not-so-pretty leather corselet. As I didn't want to throw it away, I decided to revamp it. In part one, I took the garment apart, and in part two, I embellished it with lace. This week, I get to show you the finished product. 

I wanted to replace the lining because it was red and not properly attached to the leather. As I took the whole thing apart, changing was actually pretty easy. I cut new lining from black cotton, and attached it to the seams while putting the corset back together. I left the seams on the right side in order to gain a tidy and smooth inside.
 I covered the seams with bone channels, and boned the corset with 7mm spiral steel.
 To the front, I sewed buttons with white splashes on them. I pondered between these and black buttons for quite a while, and chose these only because I liked the way they seemed to repeat the glow of leather.
 I didn't touch the eyelets I'd put in a million years ago. I attached the new lining next to them. I might add a bit of lace to the back later to hide the seam: the stitching isn't quite as straight as I'd like it!
 The fresh lining is much nicer than the previous one. Now I won't have to feel like the red is clashing with my... oh yes. I keep forgetting that.
 
 I even managed to get the lining to settle tidily on the inside of the lacing. 
All in all, re-creating the corset was surprisingly straight-forward. The only thing giving me real trouble was deciding how to decorate it.
 The finished corset isn't as long as the original. It turned out as a short half-bust. Which is really nice, since I didn't have one in my closet before. 
I'm really happy about the way the corset turned out, and I trust it will get much more wear this way. 
And yes, I dyed my hair black. I'm loving it so much <3>
Until next time!
Love,
Heather

keskiviikko 3. helmikuuta 2016

Corset ReVamp, pt. 2





Once upon a time just last week, I started my Corset ReVamp -adventure. Today, I shall continue. 
As promised. 
My original "corset" had plastic boning. After taking them out, I found, non-surprisingly, that they were in pretty shoddy condition. After only a few wears, the plastic bones were bent out of shape. 
To give the corset a longer, more comfortable life, I decided to bone it with 7mm steel spiral. 
This is a very light form of steel bone, which works best for decorative corsets and corset tops. It is comfortable, durable, and flexible. And my favourite since it so versatile. 
Now the bad news was that the bones I had stashed were a bit on the short side. 
So no overbust for Heather.
 As mentioned in pt. 1, the leather had stitch marks on it. My first instinct was to add buckles and rivets and all sorts of things made of metal. 
That, however, seemed to clash with the rest of my wardrobe which is floating to a more feminine, romantic direction. 
So, rummaging through my stash and leaving a horrid mess behind, I ran into a bit of lace left over from an order made a long time ago. 
Non-elastic, high-quality lace. 
Floral and romantic. 
After placing a bit of satin ribbon on the corset pieces to cover some of the stitch marks, I wondered...
 I cut motifs out of the lace. And then I...
 
... I appliqued them onto the leather. 
With the stitch marks now completely covered, I could concentrate on deciding how to close the thing. 
When contemplating many things metal, I planned to add a zipper to the front of the corset. 
Zippers are cold, though, and they always slide. 
I don't like busks, either, so I went for my signature-solution.
 I created a criss-cross buttoning to the front of the corset. I've done this before, and I really like the way it looks. 
This option works on decorative corsets only. If you want a proper waist crincher, always use a busk.
 With the corset embellished, it's now time to move on to putting it together. 
Stay tuned for the big finale! 

Love,
Heather

tiistai 26. tammikuuta 2016

Corset ReVamp, pt. 1

Once upon a time, I had made a pretty ugly corset. There was nothing about I liked, other than the fact that it was made of leather. I don't like throwing anything away, not even failed projects, so I decided to revamp it. 
The original corset was made with upcycled leather. It had D-rings on it, and plastic boning. 
The lining was made with red cotton. Ugh. 
Also, the corset had a floating lining, so it was quite horrendous to wear. 
I started by tearing off the lining, leaving a little bit behind to support the eyelets. Which I will not be replacing. 
Undoing anything sewn with leather is risky. Every stitch leaves a little hole into the leather. This corset had plenty of top stitching, so I'm going to have to get pretty creative with it. 
 ... since I tore off all the embellishments, too. 
The leather looks like it's served as a pincushion. 
 And to make it worse, I undid the seams as well. The shape of the corset was a bit off, so this way I get to re-shape the pieces a bit. 
 My plan is to replace the lining, re-do bone channels (I might stick with the plastic boning, though, for this isn't meant to be a waist crincher), and add front closure. The corset also needs decorations. Plenty of it, due to the stitch marks. 
During the upcoming weeks, I'll be re-doing the corset. Stay tuned to see what becomes of it! 

Until next time. 
Love, 
Heather